"I want to build a valved reflux still from plans at ""Building a world class still.""
Could someone tell me, does the condenser head have a cap on it? Wouldn"t the vapor just go out the top? I did find a thread where Mountain Man asked the same question but he didn't get an answer. Thanx in advance MB"

"

Thanx for the reply. I'm in British Columbia Canada. But the thig is with this particular design the column with the packing does have a cap for the thermomiter. The condencer is conectted to the column by a tee. In the instructions they don't show a top on the condencer. again I can't help but think that with no top the vapor coming from the column will escape to the atmospere rather than be condenced back to liquid. The plans I've refered to are at http://www.moonshine-still.com/ can anyone else answer my question? Thanx in advance MB"

"That design is dangerous for the very reason that you had to ask! It should have been made very clear in the plans that the condenser top is not sealed. It has to breath. If you closed both needle valves, where would the pressure go as the gasses expand? Also, if you shut the heat off on a hot boiler and then closed the two valves, where would it draw air in as it cooled, if the unit was air tight? The gasses will not escape if the condenser is working correctly and you have the appropriate amount of heat. Which leads me to the design.
The design is OK but I would recommend a couple changes. Buy a 3"" cap for the condenser, but drill a 1/2"" hole in the top for venting. Sand the inside of the cap and top of the condenser as to give the cap a lose fit. Drill two more holes in the top of the cap for your coolant inlet and outlet. I put barbed fittings at that point for hose removable. Make your coil(1/4""tubing) and fasten it to the fittings in the cap. Now, you have a condenser coil that can be lifted in and out of the condenser for easy cleaning, storage, inspection,and repair. Also column insulation if very important and the plan looks cool but the coolant lines soldered along the column get in the way of insulation!
One other problem with the design is cooling capacity. The small size at the base of the condenser does not allow for enough coiling coils. Instead of buying a 2x2x1 1/2' ""T"" (as in the plans) for the column, buy a 2x2x2"" ""T"". Buy a 2x4x4"" ""T"" for the condenser. Then buy a 4""x2""reducer and solder that to the bottom of the ""T"". The 2"" cap(at the bottom of the condenser) should be soldered with no space between it and the reducer. (Use a short 2"" nipple.) Now, when you form the condenser coil, there is enough room to get the coils down to the bottom 2"" cap. That will keep things cooler! Again, that is all removable by lifting it out of the top of the condenser.
One other alteration might be to add a 2"" union at the base of the column. Then you can store, clean and handle the tower with ease. You can also buy a second 2"" union and add it to a ""column extension"". Make it as long as you like. Just put it between the boiler union and the tower union.
Good Luck"

ChuckE, I am a new member and have a problem building my condenser. Have tried several times to coil 1/4" copper and screw up every time. How can I bend the copper to fit into my 2" condenser? My system is finished except for the condenser. Please help with a suggestion or a place to purchase. richieb

"mtnwalker2
Thank you, will try your suggestion.
richieb"

Again apologize for going around bumping old threads and being redundant but the plumber and I are trying to build this contraption. It appears in the plans the shield around the coil which calls for the use of 3" copper which is just slightly less than the price of gold these days..could be replaced by a strategically cut large diamter tin can. What am I missing here? Was also toying with the notion of trying to make a smaller diameter but longer coil and stuffing it into some two inch pipe. The plumber has plenty of two inch but no three inch. Also noticed somebody nagging about the cooling lines being soldered direct to the column. I was thinking to suggest to the plumber to attach the copper cooling lines with some type of spacer between them and the column at two or three places allowing the column to be insulated somewhat while leaving the cooling lines on the outside of the insulation. I like the idea the lines mount low. Figger if a person starts mounting water hoses on top it make it top heavy. Anybody got input?. Thanks.

"

I see no reason a longer 2"" column wouldnt work. Its all about surface area and volume.

Im not sure how you get mounting the cooling directly to the top will make it top heavy. Or at least, any more top heavy. i think you are over thinking it.

Found this vid on youtube, not the best video quality but worth checking out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3q6S5zRctc"

Column reflux condenser should have an open top. Proper sizing of the coil and water flow will prevent 99% of any vapor escaping with the advantage of safety as well as cleaning. 1/4" od soft copper is readily available and can be tightly wound around a 1" dowel by applying heat to the copper as it is wound. This will fit firmly inside a 1-1/2 pipe. Wind it around an 1-1/4 dowel and it will fit inside a 2" column. A 3" column can take 3/8" copper wound the same way. again length of the condenser and gpm is critical for proper operation to assure adequete reflux. I personally have had great results with this type using a double plate type column. The amount of heat and water flow is variable and when these quantities are realized they should remain constant throughout the process. The mash will automaticaly adjust the temperature to match the boiling points of the liquid. You just have to watch the bottle fill up. Making Shine is not difficult if you don't get fancy, the problem is staying co-herint enough to finish cooking. Shine is kinda like good sex, if you rush it you get results but it is never as good as taking your time and enjoying it.

It would cost about 10$ but you don't need a cap. I never had a problem with the needle valve, it should never get real hot anyway.

"Gonna get yer best behavior if the reflux is induced at the top. It will be more helpful for establishing a more naturally occurring equilibrium and quality separation.
Cooling lines mounted low will promote smearing as constituents with lower boiling points will be prematurely condensed and dropped back into the boiler..."