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Offline tom sawyer  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, May 28, 2014 2:36:37 PM(UTC)
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"I ordered the EE PS2 with 8gal kettle, it fits my modest needs. I saw this heater option and decided to try one out. I found a cheap rheostat controller to control temp so I can do a decent reflux. I already have a 1500W hotplate but the fact that it cycles on/off I think would prevent proper refluxing.

Anyone have this heater and what are your experiences? I intend to report back on my own experience. I've been running a cheap homemade pit still for some time so I'm ready for this next step I think."
Offline DRIFTER_015  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, May 28, 2014 4:27:23 PM(UTC)
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"I went the water heater element route with Captinjacks controller design and it works extremely well.

http://www.brewhausforum...uter-speed-control"
Offline Hokey  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, May 28, 2014 5:06:33 PM(UTC)
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Hi Tom, I would be interested to hear how the band heaters work. They sound like a great idea to me. Can someone use two of them to get to temp (on separate circuits) then shut one off like with two internal water heater elements?
Offline tom sawyer  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, May 28, 2014 11:20:45 PM(UTC)
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I'm sure you could double up, the 15gal kettle surely has enough area to fit two. I would go 220v and 40 amp if I needed more than 110v/20min could handle. Simply because running g extension cords for 12.5amp seems problematic.
Offline RCRed  
#5 Posted : Thursday, May 29, 2014 12:44:56 AM(UTC)
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I am thinking if you use two, it would almost have to be 220 on seperate feeds to achieve the volts/watts and not cook yer carrier wire.

I am considering changing up my PSII to use this over the Blichmann burner I use on that setup and I would use two as well. In planning that, I am seeing a new RSC box with dial ped's and circuits and possibly even two meter's as well.
Offline tom sawyer  
#6 Posted : Thursday, May 29, 2014 1:16:09 AM(UTC)
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1500W pulls around 12.5amps, not too much for the carrier wire on a standard 110v 15 or 20amp line. I've run the hotpplate and I will occasionally feel the carrier wire to make sure its not hot. It has never been hot although when I was using a cheap extension cord it did heat up.
Offline RCRed  
#7 Posted : Thursday, May 29, 2014 1:54:01 AM(UTC)
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I over engineer everything, sorry... Just a trade habit from my IRL job...As bulletproof as possible..

If I was running that two band setup thru an RSC box similar to the one I posted in the DIY RSC thread, I would again use 8 gauge to run from the wall plug into the box and out ta the elements - and a section of stripped 8 gauge for internal wiring. The Ped wires from a heavy duty Power supply cord.. and there'd be two meters and peds (dials) - this gives a person precise control - use both, use one, varying settings betwixt the two, etc.

Still dragon is developing a multi element RSC control box - it's six months out, but looks to be the cat's ass without the adventure of self assembly!
Offline tom sawyer  
#8 Posted : Thursday, May 29, 2014 12:33:28 PM(UTC)
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I found an extensive thread about controllers on HD and the thing I bought is low end but should work. They say the high end of the variable setting is 75% of maximum. Hopefully this provides enough heat to run reflux on the 8gal volume.
Offline John Barleycorn  
#9 Posted : Thursday, May 29, 2014 11:54:44 PM(UTC)
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"
Originally Posted by: tom sawyer Go to Quoted Post
I already have a 1500W hotplate but the fact that it cycles on/off I think would prevent proper refluxing.

It will. But you can bypass the thermostat (takes about 5 minutes to perform) and use a decent RSC."
Offline tom sawyer  
#10 Posted : Friday, May 30, 2014 2:20:03 AM(UTC)
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"
Originally Posted by: John Barleycorn Go to Quoted Post
It will. But you can bypass the thermostat (takes about 5 minutes to perform) and use a decent RSC.


Interesting, I just read about someone doing this last night but it really didn't sink in. I suppose this won't kill the hotplate element? I might give it a shot if the band heater doesn't perform by itself."
Offline John Barleycorn  
#11 Posted : Friday, May 30, 2014 2:49:03 AM(UTC)
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"I don't think you'll have any problems with a modified hotplate. You won't need an RSC when you strip, but you'll want one for your spirit runs (reflux or pot).

Here's a picture of the modification:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]976[/ATTACH]

The two connections you need to change have F-type terminals/connectors. So you just slide them off & push them on. Connect both ends of the unused wire to the thermostat so it's there if you want to restore normal operation. It's an easy mod ... once it's made, you can compare the performance with the band heater.

Just a final comment: I've seen posts about the 15A RSCs burning out with the 1500w plate. I know the math says it should be fine, but it's a good idea to over engineer as Red suggests ... especially when dealing with power and heat. Residential power lines are notoriously noisy, variable, and prone to surges, spikes, etc. The consumer grade RSCs just aren't equipped to handle all of that when they're running near their max. If you step up to a 20A RSC that'll give you more wiggle room."
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Offline tom sawyer  
#12 Posted : Friday, May 30, 2014 4:28:48 AM(UTC)
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"
Originally Posted by: John Barleycorn Go to Quoted Post
I don't think you'll have any problems with a modified hotplate. You won't need an RSC when you strip, but you'll want one for your spirit runs (reflux or pot).

Here's a picture of the modification:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]976[/ATTACH]

The two connections you need to change have F-type terminals/connectors. So you just slide them off & push them on. Connect both ends of the unused wire to the thermostat so it's there if you want to restore normal operation. It's an easy mod ... once it's made, you can compare the performance with the band heater.

Just a final comment: I've seen posts about the 15A RSCs burning out with the 1500w plate. I know the math says it should be fine, but it's a good idea to over engineer as Red suggests ... especially when dealing with power and heat. Residential power lines are notoriously noisy, variable, and prone to surges, spikes, etc. The consumer grade RSCs just aren't equipped to handle all of that when they're running near their max. If you step up to a 20A RSC that'll give you more wiggle room.


I'll give this one a shot and move to a better RSC if/when it fails. I don't plan on doing a lot of reflux runs anyway, but I wanted to be set up to have the option and it sounds like combining condenser flow control and power control helps you get the most out of these units. I appreciate the info."
Offline RCRed  
#13 Posted : Friday, May 30, 2014 6:08:56 AM(UTC)
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For comparison, I am using a 40A RSC on a 30amp circuit, 5500W element - Boils water in about 25 mins on a 13 gal SS milk can boiler.

Once it reaches boil, I can dial that sucker back to low percentages(on the meter) and still hold a boil. I lost boil at about 5%, but it came right back at 7%. For reflux work you need that precision to get good compression of the factions in the process. Same with the coolant flow too.

I enjoy Pot Stillin' more, but this has really intrigued me and I've sorta branched into it ....
Offline tom sawyer  
#14 Posted : Sunday, June 01, 2014 9:52:27 AM(UTC)
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I jumped the temp control on my hotplate, that went well. Plugged into the router speed control and it worked. Stayed on at full power, and on the variable I could see the indicator light go dimmer as I turned down the power. It made a buzzing sound, I suppose that's normal.
Offline tom sawyer  
#15 Posted : Friday, June 06, 2014 8:37:26 AM(UTC)
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Got a hot sauce box in the mail last night. All I can say is Wow! Carefully packed, everything there and in perfect condition with no dents or dings. Very good quality materials, great fit and finish. Put it together but couldn't play with it since SWMBO and I already had date night planned. I'm going to distill some water when I get home just to test the band heater and controller. This thing is gonna be fun to play with. I've been contemplating this purchase for a long time, so glad I finally pulled the trigger.
Offline heeler  
#16 Posted : Friday, June 06, 2014 11:02:12 PM(UTC)
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"one thing, dont be alarmed if the water wont --boil--- I'm not saying it wont but water and mash are two different things and it takes quite a bit of heat to BOIL water. Now, with that thought in mind.....you will certainly be able to distill mash cause we dont push a wash or mash to 212F, know what I mean??
Just something to remember....good luck with your new toy."
Offline tom sawyer  
#17 Posted : Saturday, June 07, 2014 1:33:33 AM(UTC)
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Thanks for the advice, I know was has a higher specific heat and a higher BP than wash so wasn't surprised the rate of runoff was modest. It did boil about 3 gal in a reasonably short time though. I have a few leak issues to deal with on the bypass valve and I'll be ready to make a sacrificial cleaning run.
Offline tom sawyer  
#18 Posted : Tuesday, September 02, 2014 2:56:44 PM(UTC)
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Reporting back at long last. Getting to know the rig, and really enjoying the band heater. Works like a charm, better than the same wattage hotplate. I suppose it's the good contact and surface area. I'm using a router controller, you have to watch it as it can get hot if you run flat out but so far so good I haven't burned it up.
Offline tom sawyer  
#19 Posted : Thursday, June 04, 2015 6:15:35 PM(UTC)
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Another update. The band heater continues to perform well and the router controller is hanging in there too. I did just buy a cheap SCR unit that came complete with a cooling block and compputer fan, for $23. Will wire it up and install in the next few months.
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