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Offline scotty  
#1 Posted : Saturday, October 27, 2012 12:24:08 PM(UTC)
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"My work area is being painted and time is running out.

I lust got my aluminum 8 gallon pot to use as a boil pot.
This is what the kitchen counter looks like now.

UserPostedImage"
Offline Bushy  
#2 Posted : Saturday, October 27, 2012 2:12:16 PM(UTC)
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How's the little lady taking all that in the kitchen?
As far as the beer goes it should be Ok, maybe not aged as much as I would like but should do just fine.

Have Fun.
Offline scotty  
#3 Posted : Saturday, October 27, 2012 8:38:40 PM(UTC)
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She is my team mate. She can and is lways willing to handle a wrench right along with me. The beer is going to be an amber ale.I will always appreciate any pointers. This will be an all grain batch. My first attempt at beer was a malt extract which failed. It turned sour. I figure a bacterial infection. I had a friend working with me on that one. He didnt understand the importance of sanitizing. I didnt want to insult him. This time my lady will be working with me. She is quite fussy with instructions.
Wish me luck and any tips please :)
Offline Bushy  
#4 Posted : Sunday, October 28, 2012 4:31:47 AM(UTC)
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Good Luck Scotty, and for what it's worth I use Nottingham Ale yeast made by Lallemand. I have'nt taken it above 12% but I believe it would go higher. Most of my Ales are around 8% give or take 1%. When I take it higher the grain flavor/body seems to get overpowered by alcohol, but I do like a strong Ale so for my taste 8% is a good balance.

Have Fun.
Offline scotty  
#5 Posted : Sunday, October 28, 2012 7:05:53 AM(UTC)
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What about adding a bit of honey to the end of the boil and adding some chocolate malt to get an amber ale?????
Offline heeler  
#6 Posted : Sunday, October 28, 2012 8:46:54 AM(UTC)
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"Scotty, your outta time, you better getta cooking. I think you said AG, that will need some 25-30 days to ferment and then it will need to age so it can carbonate. Now if you keg and your gonna use co2 that will speed up the second half but still time is a must with most beers. I know the directions say 2 weeks and your drinkin but I have ruined more than I want to admit before it sunk in --- it takes time dammit.
Now with a AG the easiest way is the BIAB method and works great with AG. You do everything right in the boil pot and then remove the grain bag and boil, it just dont get easier than that.
Oh and you can add honey right at the end of the boil, that will give better flavor careover but not much with honey anyway. The honey will up the abv% a little too.
If its for Thanksgiving ----getta cookin!!!"
Offline scotty  
#7 Posted : Sunday, October 28, 2012 9:15:22 AM(UTC)
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I think i wont make it. I do have carbonating equipment in my kegorator. The boil pot drain valve thai i just installed is leaking. I have already installed it 2 times. I need to wait till tomorrow to let silicone set for the third installation attempt.
Offline heeler  
#8 Posted : Sunday, October 28, 2012 10:10:41 AM(UTC)
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Well not that it matters, but after you cool your finished wort and its cooled I just use a autosyphon and put it right in the fermenter, that way I can leave all that other stuff in the bottom of the BOP. Then add the yeast starter and put in my ferm/chiller cooler that ya'll saw. Are you sure that spigot idea is gonna hold under the boil conditions??? I hope it works out for ya.
Offline scotty  
#9 Posted : Sunday, October 28, 2012 10:41:06 AM(UTC)
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I'm getting desperate. I have installed quite a few weldless connections. They all were not easy but this one just wont work.


Tomorrow i will try JB WELD. The pot is aluminum. I'll read the instructions carefully. I hope it works. I'm tired of this holdup.

Opinions???
Offline Bushy  
#10 Posted : Sunday, October 28, 2012 1:07:36 PM(UTC)
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Hi Scotty, is that spigot the type that has a flang on the outside going up against the pot an a washer and nut on the inside? If so I've had good success useing a silicone baking sheet as gasket material. Just cut to fit, it's good to 400 degrees and seems to be chemical tolerant, and leaves no flavoring behind. Most of my Ale's ferment out in less than 10 days. That should leave you enough time in the bottle for carbonation by Thanksgiving. Just because I like to age mine longer does'nt mean I can't drink some it right away, and my wife and I do just that.

Honey at the end of the boil will add some good flavor but not much in the way of fermentables.

Chocolate malt is always good.

Your Lady sounds like an excelent help mate, tell her Hi.
Offline scotty  
#11 Posted : Sunday, October 28, 2012 10:48:58 PM(UTC)
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Thanks for all the help.

I take back the name i called you a few years ago. I forgot what it was. :))
Offline BamaDave  
#12 Posted : Tuesday, October 30, 2012 1:49:46 PM(UTC)
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Hey, for what it is worth, I wouldn't even think about using a silicone sealant or jb weld on my brew kettle. I would be afraid to drink it with the chemicals leached in to the brew. I don't know about posting links on here so I will just say do a google search for 1/2 stainless bulkhead fitting. It looks like a 1/2 valve anyways, if not, search for your size. That fitting will seal perfectly and you screw your valve into it. Most all homebrew stores carry them as well as just about any plumbing store. As for brewing, I have been brewing for about 10 years. It sounds like you don't have a much of a recipe yet. Try brewmasters warehouse, they have a great selection of recipes stored on their site for free. You should be able to get an ale fermented in less than 7 days easily if you keep the temperature up in the high 60's or low 70's. As for kegging, you can carbonate the beer pretty quickly. The trick is, put the beer in the keg, charge the keg up to about 30-40 PSI and lay the keg on it's side. Roll the keg back and forth slowly for about 5 minutes several times a day. Basically, you lay the keg on it's side to allow more beer contact with the co2. You will know when to stop rolling because you will hear your regulator stop allowing co2 into the keg. Wait a few hours and try again, when you start rolling the keg you will hear the regulator charging again. I have carbed a beer in 2 days doing that but that was with 5 gallon corny kegs. Good luck and shoot me a message if you have any questions or post here.
Offline Bushy  
#13 Posted : Tuesday, October 30, 2012 2:20:33 PM(UTC)
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"Hey BD, The use of silicone is controversial and some people are very strongly against it's use. I'm not one of them. If you eat foods that are commercially prepared, restaurant, grocery store, 7-11, etc., then you have eaten some foods that were cooked on silicone conveyer belts or bakeing sheets. Food grade silicone is used quite often in food production and silicone seals are also used in the production of beer.

I have been useing seals made from silicone bakeing sheets for awhile now with no degredation of the material. I also have some of the material that has been soaking in a heads, hearts, and tails solution for over a month, it has been heated and cooled once a week and shows no signs of degradation so far.

If you go to the HD site they hate silicone and if you go to the AD site they like it.

To each his own.

Have Fun."
Offline BamaDave  
#14 Posted : Tuesday, October 30, 2012 3:27:33 PM(UTC)
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I went back and reread the post and agree with what you were saying about the silicone baking sheets. These are probably absolutely harmless. I was referring to Scotty's post of waiting for the silicone to set. I don't know what type of silicone it is but I immediately thought, permatex gasket or something. Food grade, I have no argument with if that is what you choose but non food grade would scare the hell out of me. Just the fact that he is considering JB Weld scares me. It may be 100% safe but I wouldn't be willing to bet my liver on it. Maybe I am being overkill here and if so I apologize. When in doubt, I would prefer to lead someone to a safer product than hear about some type of poisoning later on.
Offline Bushy  
#15 Posted : Tuesday, October 30, 2012 4:26:42 PM(UTC)
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Hi BD, I'm not a fan of JB weld but it may be Ok on the out side with no product contact. As for the silicone sealant if it's 100% silicone without the mold inhibiter then it is food grade silicone. They sell it at home depot,lowes,etc, in the large tubes like caulking tubes. Some of the manufacturers list on the label as being food grade silicone. I'm in total agreement with you about the gasket sealer though. I was on a forum somewhere a while ago and someone recomended a red gasket sealer for making column gaskets, gave me the shivers.
Offline scotty  
#16 Posted : Wednesday, October 31, 2012 12:05:05 AM(UTC)
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The website says non toxix when fully cured 24 hours.

What is your opinion on that statement please????
Offline Bushy  
#17 Posted : Wednesday, October 31, 2012 2:59:47 AM(UTC)
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I think your talking about the JB weld? I don't use it but if it works, is non toxic, and does'nt leach with applied heat or over time, then I say go for it.

Have Fun.
Offline scotty  
#18 Posted : Wednesday, October 31, 2012 3:37:23 AM(UTC)
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It is being tested now- ill boil water for one hour--- I did the research on the toxicity. OK after 24 hours. i waited 48 hours.
Thanks for the help.
Offline Bushy  
#19 Posted : Wednesday, October 31, 2012 3:51:31 AM(UTC)
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Might want to throw some vinigar in there to see how it reacts to a mild acid solution.

Have Fun.
Offline scotty  
#20 Posted : Wednesday, October 31, 2012 9:02:44 AM(UTC)
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First of all i couldnt get the 5 gallons to a boil using the 1500 watt hotplate-- Outdoors i will use propane but we are workinh on the deck.

Sooo i put one layer of sticky back duct insulation on the pot and lid.

Bushey i also added 5.2 buffer to get the normally ph8 water down.

Right now i'm trying to get the pot to boil--i will put a second layer of insulation if needed---the worst case is even if i cant boil it with 1500 watts and 2 layers, the boil pot will be more efficient when i use it outside on the propane burner.

I'm just letting off a little steam lol lol
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