 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/4/2011(UTC)
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"I have tried different ways to cool the reflux column and condenser. The cold water and small fountain pumps and connected to water line and slowly ran water through the system. My question is for a 6-7 gallon to a 15 gallon what has been the best methods someone has used? My problem has been changing water over and over again and thw water hose input and draining outdoors. I had great results when keeping water chilled and it seems that every thing so far has been a royal pain. I need to find a less stressful and back breaking moving gallons of water around or running water hoses every where. Last what is the normal temp that the cooling water should be. I have read let it get slightly warm and someone say ice the water down. Any tips and advise would be appreciated.
Thanks"
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 Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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Carl,
I use a 10 gal. picnic cooler and a bunch of frozen 1 L plastic bottles of water. I throw four of them in at a time and switch them out once they are almost thawed, They things cool for awhile but I still end up changing the water at least once during a spirit run.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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Posts: 526
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I use a 150Qt ice chest and have 12, 1 gallon filled with water and frozen. I start off with cold water in the chest and 2 ice jugs. When the water gets warm to my hand I'll add another ice jug and when the jugs have thawed i replace them. This system is good for a 10 to 12 hour run with the 8 gallon boiler pot filled with 6 gallons wash.
Hope this gives you some ideas for your problem.
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Rank: Guest
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Hey Carl..do you got a swimming pool by any chance? Pumping the water to the hooch maker and back to the pool works real well. Now it do require stringing out some garden hoses. Somebody also posted on here about using a 55 gal barrel full of water. Object being to draw the cool water from the bottom of the barrel and deposit the warm water back towards the top. Sounded plausible to me but believe I would have some frozen water jugs on hand just to be ready is case it got too hot. Take care. Originally Posted by: carlsgems  I have tried different ways to cool the reflux column and condenser. The cold water and small fountain pumps and connected to water line and slowly ran water through the system. My question is for a 6-7 gallon to a 15 gallon what has been the best methods someone has used? My problem has been changing water over and over again and thw water hose input and draining outdoors. I had great results when keeping water chilled and it seems that every thing so far has been a royal pain. I need to find a less stressful and back breaking moving gallons of water around or running water hoses every where. Last what is the normal temp that the cooling water should be. I have read let it get slightly warm and someone say ice the water down. Any tips and advise would be appreciated.
Thanks
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/4/2011(UTC)
Posts: 37
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" Originally Posted by: bigwheel Hey Carl..do you got a swimming pool by any chance? Pumping the water to the hooch maker and back to the pool works real well. Now it do require stringing out some garden hoses. Somebody also posted on here about using a 55 gal barrel full of water. Object being to draw the cool water from the bottom of the barrel and deposit the warm water back towards the top. Sounded plausible to me but believe I would have some frozen water jugs on hand just to be ready is case it got too hot. Take care. I wish I did have a pool as water source. I guess the best way is like when I first started running stuff was frozen milk cartons and keep switch till I ran out and then keep changing the water. This is a must on reflux. I tried with hose and tap water running through and draining in the yard and the purity suffered really bad. In the winter I keep buckets out overnight and changed less with good success. I think my answer is there is no ""easy way"" just a bit of grunt work for better runs."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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Go down to the hardware store and pick up a plastic 35 gallon garbage can for your water source. They are pretty cheap and can be used for other things between runs.
Have Fun
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Rank: Guest
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Have you got any control of water going to the condenser? Not sure it help much to solve heat issues but sure do help with weak water flow. First I heard of purity issues for hose water. Not sure of the science behind that..lol. If it gets to working too well just turn it down. Mine flat will not work if the regular faucet water is turned up too high. It starts popping hose clamps and spitting water around the hooch shack like a boa constrictor ejecting venom. Originally Posted by: carlsgems I wish I did have a pool as water source. I guess the best way is like when I first started running stuff was frozen milk cartons and keep switch till I ran out and then keep changing the water. This is a must on reflux. I tried with hose and tap water running through and draining in the yard and the purity suffered really bad. In the winter I keep buckets out overnight and changed less with good success. I think my answer is there is no "easy way" just a bit of grunt work for better runs.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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Posts: 37
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With the large garbage can, does the water stay cool, enough to do the job? Pump cooler water from the bottom and drain column water back to top of can, if this works that will be a great back saver. I have been using 8 to 10 gallon buckets and changing them as I go is why it is a pain for me.
Thanks for the tip, Big A** trash can full of water.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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That should be big enough. The cooler I ues is 150 Qt roughly 37 gallons. I can do a 10 hour run with it and 12 frozen 1 gallon milk jugs.
Have Fun.
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Get the Brute..they also make excellent fermenters..or so I been told. Hey grab two of the twenty gallon models and double dunk the sump pump. That size makes doozy fermenters for a 10-12 gallon wash. I can plainly see a person able to slay two...or maybe a whole flock of God's Feathered Creatures with one stone here. Dont buy off branded junk. Brutes are food grade Rubber Maid. You will be looking for the gray ones I think..or maybe the blue one..I forget right now. A 35 gallon plastic trash can full of water would not be pleasant for any of the concerned parties. Kindly keeps us posted. Thanks. PS..twenty bucks each at Lowes or a few hundred for similar capacity at the home brew shoppe..lol. Originally Posted by: carlsgems With the large garbage can, does the water stay cool, enough to do the job? Pump cooler water from the bottom and drain column water back to top of can, if this works that will be a great back saver. I have been using 8 to 10 gallon buckets and changing them as I go is why it is a pain for me.
Thanks for the tip, Big A** trash can full of water.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2012(UTC)
Posts: 526
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I think the garbage can would be your best bet.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/4/2011(UTC)
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That is a plan, will post results, I am doing my first double batch mash in a converted keg with a PS II, 15 gallons and I have dreaded the water exchanging after it gets going. I have had mixed replies on cooling temps of the water. In reflux the colder the better and higher ABV for most of the run, not sure of the cut off of when the H2O is to warm, have read that 100 to 120 ok, just seems a bit to warm for me, thats why the back breaking bucket exchanges for 6 hours or more.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2012(UTC)
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I like to keep my water no warmer than 75 to 80 degrees. When you get closer to the tails thats not so critical. But until then you need to have cold water, especially for the tower. Thats why I use the 1 gallon ice jugs.
You may want to rig up a way to divert your rigs output hose so about half way through you can divert from your tank to a drain or outside. That way you can use the pump to drain and a hose to refill. Save your back.
Have Fun.
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I aint never been forced so low as to have to cool things off with hot water..lol. But..think I heard Bayou say one time you can keep the fancy hooch maker cool enough with some surprisingly hot water. As long as it can knock down the vapor it should be just fine..or something similar to that. If something comes shooting out the top it time for an ice bucket maybe. Let us know. Thanks. Originally Posted by: carlsgems That is a plan, will post results, I am doing my first double batch mash in a converted keg with a PS II, 15 gallons and I have dreaded the water exchanging after it gets going. I have had mixed replies on cooling temps of the water. In reflux the colder the better and higher ABV for most of the run, not sure of the cut off of when the H2O is to warm, have read that 100 to 120 ok, just seems a bit to warm for me, thats why the back breaking bucket exchanges for 6 hours or more.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/4/2011(UTC)
Posts: 37
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I was planning on getting the brute can today but was delayed here in the east with a freak sub tropical system that is climbing the east coast. The weather people said nothing of the, cloudy chance of thunder storms, some of the worst flooding in years, what the hey!!! tomorrow I will make the run in BIG Can of H2O. Crossing my fingers and freezing some jugs to help if needed, this time I will monitor the cooling water temps just for info and interest. I can tell by the dripping when the water is getting to warm, good production but lower ABV. When the water is nice and cool the drip is a little slower and the production is clear and even the jars have a chill from good production. I do control my water flow no matter what cooling method I use, two pumps one full bore on the condenser and control on the reflux cooling tubes on a PS II. This set up makes some fine hooch when keeping the water controlled and cooling water at a good temp.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/18/2010(UTC)
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" Originally Posted by: carlsgems I was planning on getting the brute can today but was delayed here in the east with a freak sub tropical system that is climbing the east coast. The weather people said nothing of the, cloudy chance of thunder storms, some of the worst flooding in years, what the hey!!! tomorrow I will make the run in BIG Can of H2O. Crossing my fingers and freezing some jugs to help if needed, this time I will monitor the cooling water temps just for info and interest. I can tell by the dripping when the water is getting to warm, good production but lower ABV. When the water is nice and cool the drip is a little slower and the production is clear and even the jars have a chill from good production. I do control my water flow no matter what cooling method I use, two pumps one full bore on the condenser and control on the reflux cooling tubes on a PS II. This set up makes some fine hooch when keeping the water controlled and cooling water at a good temp. I use a brute garbage can. I put a hose bib on the bottom. I have a well and I run a continual flow into the top of the can and leave the hose bib open. So I am continually adding new water. I run the outflow to my orange trees. Works fine."
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Rank: Guest
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Sounds like you got it figgerd out here. Sorry about the Crappy weather. I stumbled over a useful nugget of truth today. Do not depend on cheap 110 elements from lowes to maintain any semblance of steady temps in an electrified hooch bucket. It only took two runs to track down the issue. I am just like Sherlock Holmes huh? lol. Now kindly somebody recommend some where and what to get that do not act so rudely. Thanks. Originally Posted by: carlsgems I was planning on getting the brute can today but was delayed here in the east with a freak sub tropical system that is climbing the east coast. The weather people said nothing of the, cloudy chance of thunder storms, some of the worst flooding in years, what the hey!!! tomorrow I will make the run in BIG Can of H2O. Crossing my fingers and freezing some jugs to help if needed, this time I will monitor the cooling water temps just for info and interest. I can tell by the dripping when the water is getting to warm, good production but lower ABV. When the water is nice and cool the drip is a little slower and the production is clear and even the jars have a chill from good production. I do control my water flow no matter what cooling method I use, two pumps one full bore on the condenser and control on the reflux cooling tubes on a PS II. This set up makes some fine hooch when keeping the water controlled and cooling water at a good temp.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/4/2011(UTC)
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One thing I did learn from the forum on was a router controller on a hot plate that I took the cycle section out to get constant even heat. I am going to use it to get it up to speed then when there back the juice off to not over heat the mash when cooking. The small set up I have has a heavy aluminum plate to even out the heat on my kettle. I am going to cross my fingers on the keg setup and hope for the best. Maybe running more effective of a setup will help the water cooling issue at the same time.
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Rank: Guest
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Sounds good. Still got my hot plate in the standby mode ready to rip in case these goofy internal elements do not straighten themselves up shortly.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 157
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" Originally Posted by: carlsgems what has been the best methods someone has used? Thanks I use 2 55 gal steel barrels. One each for column and condensor. I do have 2 of the 300 gals square in the steel tubing type containers and am working on hooking up a circulating pump from the 300 gal container to the 2 55 gal drums. My hooch shed is too small to have the 300 gals inside but can get in close enough to use an old pool pump to transfer water from both. The barrel that contains the column water gets hotter than the condenser so usually can switch between them on a run. Regards to all."
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