Hot plate

[mtnwalker2]

Originally Posted by scotty

I just received a burette clamp and a burette stand. I will put my thermo well onto the burette clamp so it extends downward into the mash. Then i will use the ranco controll to controll temp. This however is not how i controll temp for my still. I had a thermowell welded into the still and next run i will experimentwith the temperature probe in the still tower top. Im still pretty new at this so i havent made a run controlling the temp from the top of the still. Up tp this point i was just using the tower temperature as a guide to setting the temperature of the boiler.

I always appreciate guidance and recomendation.

OH YEAH--SAME TO YOU FELLA

If I am reading this right: You cannot control the temp. of the mash! Any more than you can control the temp of boiling water. If its at sea level, water is going to boil at 212 regardless of how much heat you give it. Just faster evaporation- more steam. Same with the mash alchohol water mix.

[LWTCS]

Originally Posted by mtnwalker2

If I am reading this right: You cannot control the temp. of the mash! Any more than you can control the temp of boiling water. If its at sea level, water is going to boil at 212 regardless of how much heat you give it. Just faster evaporation- more steam. Same with the mash alchohol water mix.

That would be especially true as the alcohol within the wash gets depleted as the course of the run progresses. Boiling point will be some where in between the wash ABV to water ratio. Then the boiling point will continue to change as the run continues. The wash will establish the temp, not your input as such.

We just stumble along in an effort to get good separation rather than smeared cuts.

[scotty]

I guess i am using the incorrect terminology. I controll the temperature when i am maashing the grains if thats the correct word. After this process, i ferment the mash. Again the terms may be wrong.

when I am Making a run with a pot still (( irish whiskey, 3 runs.)) I believe i do a stripping run which is hard and fast; but i always thought i had to keep the liquid that is in the still just under boiling for the final runs.



I know i need help -- Im all ears if any one has the time.

[mtnwalker2]

Originally Posted by scotty

I guess i am using the incorrect terminology. I controll the temperature when i am maashing the grains if thats the correct word. After this process, i ferment the mash. Again the terms may be wrong.

when I am Making a run with a pot still (( irish whiskey, 3 runs.)) I believe i do a stripping run which is hard and fast; but i always thought i had to keep the liquid that is in the still just under boiling for the final runs.



I know i need help -- Im all ears if any one has the time.

Aha! Now that does sound reasonable and sound practice. Should make a grand mash. Love Irish whisky, and I make a great poiteen sp. also with pure oats. Its one of the family and friends favorites.

As for the still run, you have to boil, but a gentle simmer is best.

Heres a tip. You can judge it by sound. Use boiling chips, I now use a couple handfulls of reishig rings, but have used copper fittings, gravel, broken glass etc in many years past. All work. It breaks the boil into small volumes of vapor like a gentle simmer, and not the big bubbles of gas. You can hear if its boiling hard or a nice simmer boil. The rashig rings work best for me, as they are uniform in sound. Lets you know better than any thermometer in the pot whats going on.

When finished with the run, I put a piece of coppper screen over the opening of the boiler, with the clamp to hold it in place and dump the stillage. Then if the pot need cleaning from time to time, I will fill with hot water and perhaps some glasrens, and swirl around the bottom, then lay on side and roll around. The boiling chips scrub everything clean. Then rinse well with water. Don't have to do this often, but occasionally to get the minerals and such that builds up just as it would in a cooking pot.

Again, remember that your alchohol- water mix is going to boil in the 170's range, depending on altitude and atmospheric pressure for that day. It can vary. The only time I use the thermometer, which is digital with an alarm, is to alert me when its close to collection time, then again after stabalizing the run, when temps are changing to be ready for the cuts. Just warnings. I use taste, smell and feel for the cuts. as well as the volumes, as I now know how many ml of heads, hearts and tails each of my individual mashes or musts, or washes are going to be good. If I make something new and or different, I have to start all over with the small collection jars.

HTH

[scotty]

I have had raschig ring in the apron for my next series of runs. From now on i'll get the temp to just boiling and monitor my cuts. I used to sit there and keep raising the temperature to keep it under boiling while i tried to controll the still head temp bu doing this. Ill get it soon. Hey MTNWALKER. You are a great help Thanks. Is soon as i get the system sorted i'm going to swap the 6.5 gall boiler for a 20 gallon boiler and work on internal heating elements too.

I was thinking of getting a welding shop to replace the stainless bottom wit a copper bottom for better heat transfer but i havent priced such a modification.

[mtnwalker2]

Originally Posted by scotty

I have had raschig ring in the apron for my next series of runs. From now on i'll get the temp to just boiling and monitor my cuts. I used to sit there and keep raising the temperature to keep it under boiling while i tried to controll the still head temp bu doing this. Ill get it soon. Hey MTNWALKER. You are a great help Thanks. Is soon as i get the system sorted i'm going to swap the 6.5 gall boiler for a 20 gallon boiler and work on internal heating elements too.

I was thinking of getting a welding shop to replace the stainless bottom wit a copper bottom for better heat transfer but i havent priced such a modification.

Scotty. In my opinion, the bigger the pot, the better you will make with your cuts and quality. If I were going electric, I would contact a local plumber and perhaps get a free, glass lined and fully insulated water heater he has replaced because an element was bad. happens all the time. The owners want a new one and not just a cheap repair, as the service call is half the price, plus the element. You have to remove the catalyst from the top, and plug the hole. Replace the plastic drain at the bottom, and the plastic inlet tube at the top inlet water supply. also plug the pressure temp. control valve on the side. Probably tops $50 or so for a 25 to 50 gallon boiler. When done, attach a hose after cooled enough and drain then flush. Use a ball valve for the drain so it won't clog up.

this is my idea for next winter, when I can't run the propane outside, and who would ever look and expect a water heater to be a distiller when the column isn't attached? the bottom heating element would have to be adjusted to do the proper job.

There are some here that use electric that could give you better advice.

[scotty]

I have the propane equipment and i think it would be better. I just dont know which is more efficient. Im not sold on electric totally.

[bassinjason]

I bought the 1500w hot plate from Brewhaus and am sending it back. I'll stick to propane. Tried to make a run with it and after 2 hours of trying to get 6 gallons of wash to heat, decided to bag it and put my still on the propane burner. Even at a nice slow, low setting, propane only takes 45 minutes to come to temp.

[scotty]

Yes it takes forever to get the 6.5 gallon boiler boiling. Im getting ready to buy a 20 gallon stock pot and convery it into a boiler so i can use my propane setu. Another consideration however is internal direct electric heat.