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Thread: Heating element Installation ( In a beer keg)

  1. #1
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    Default Heating element Installation ( In a beer keg)

    There has been so much disscusion on the topic of water heater element installation and placement in a keg that I figgered it was time to give my opinion with some pics to back it up, now with that said, remember I said ---my opinion. The possibilities are as endless as the members of a stillin website.
    I'm gonna point out the parts needed and where I placed mine so have a read and lets see if I can get the point across.

    this thinking can be altered to install in any type boiler - copper - stainless keg - or whatever you can weld to..
    Last edited by heeler; 08-24-2013 at 06:08 PM.
    The sunny south and
    somewhat of a hoochologist......

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    In this photo I'm showing the parts and I'm gonna describe each one.....

    What you are looking at is the hole saw bit that you use to drill the keg...1"
    and of course a heating element with the ((((NPT))) thread....National Pipe Thread
    then a S.S. half coupling, (the long one) if you look inside you will see a thread stop, you can screw the element in from either end ...if the threads were on the outside it would be called a nipple not a coupling and of course the threads are......((((National Pipe Thread threads))))
    and since I'm really cheap I cut one in half ( i guess now you can call it a 1/4 coupling) so I could get 2 for the price of one...
    Last edited by heeler; 04-01-2014 at 08:22 AM.
    The sunny south and
    somewhat of a hoochologist......

  3. #3
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    This is how the coupling screws onto the element but its not tightened of course but you get the picture...and of course the coupling will be welded to the keg.

    Last edited by heeler; 11-05-2013 at 12:11 PM.
    The sunny south and
    somewhat of a hoochologist......

  4. #4
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    This is the finished product welded in an ready for use....
    The sunny south and
    somewhat of a hoochologist......

  5. #5
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    And just a closeup of the weld....


    So now you know what it looks like and the components you need, and the terminology to order what you need to make this work.
    Its really that simple!
    The sunny south and
    somewhat of a hoochologist......

  6. #6
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    This one is placed approx. 6 inches from the bottom and if you wanted to add another one you just go 1/4 around the other side and go up or down to install. I only used one and it works like a charm, oh and I only use 110 so any garage or barn receptical will work since most are 15 amp but find a 20 amp circut just to be safe.

    If I can help anybody with info plz dont hesitate to inquire...
    The sunny south and
    somewhat of a hoochologist......

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by heeler View Post
    This is the finished product welded in an ready for use....
    And this has been talked about before too...if you look at the bottom of the keg you see results of fire or burning and thats because I use the turkey fryer to help get up to cooking temp and then turn the fire off and use just the element for cooking. One element will heatup but it takes longer so I push it up there with the fryer gas so it dosen't take as long to get there.
    The sunny south and
    somewhat of a hoochologist......

  8. #8
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    This one is just to say see it does work....

    I hope you can see it in the background - shes up and running and producing...ok good luck and happy stillin.
    The sunny south and
    somewhat of a hoochologist......

  9. #9
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    I want to add a few more pics to help get the idea across just in case I babble too much....this is the RSC'er I use, you can see its a 15 amp model but I couldn't find an actual name on it. It has the full power setting and a variable setting. And in the variable mode you use the dial to adjust the power up or down for more or less applied heat. I had to make that little pigtail but no big deal it wires to the element and plugs iinto the controller and the controller plugs into the receptical
    The sunny south and
    somewhat of a hoochologist......

  10. #10
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    So if you lay it all out in your mind you can see that the RSC'er plugs into the wall receptical and the pigtail plugs into the RSC'er and the pigtail is screwed right to the element to complete the flow of juice. The controller is just a rheostat, or a current adjustment if you will, you turn it up for more power and down for less.
    Ok so if all this helps get one person to use this method cool and if its not for you well thats cool too but it does work so happy stillin..

    The sunny south and
    somewhat of a hoochologist......

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